Oh, cherries--how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. You are a small bomb of sweetness that explodes on the tongue like a day in summer. There are so many ways to take advantage of the glorious cherry. First, of course, you eat them raw like candy. I'm teaching a class on the letters of the poets next year, and I'm reading Sylvia Plath's two huge (as in 800 pages plus apiece) volumes of letters. For some reason a bowl of cherries really goes well with a long book. I remember reading War and Peace one summer in my twenties and eating cherries.
I started my Summer of Sylvia Plath with Red Comet, the splendid new biography by Heather Clark. The cherries made those last terrible months of Plath's life easier to read about. Plath loved to cook and eat. Her early letters mention the enormous amount of food she ate at camp. Friends say her metabolism was off the charts. I'd love to make her lemon pie. Maybe later in the year when my lemon trees start bearing fruit.
Back to cherries!
After eating cherries like candy, cherry jam is the next step in my cherry-mania. If you lace the jam with jalapeños, then you will have a marvelous addition to your fall cheese boards. I've also made some cherry jam without the peppers to use when I make a Gateau Basque and a newly discovered Maltese Tart to commemorate the birth of the Virgin, which leads one down a linguistic path on all the uses of the word "cherry." Look for the on September 8, which is the BVM's birthday.
A third use for cherries is Eugenia Bone's divine recipe for cherries preserved in red wine. I usually make three or four pint jars every summer. In the middle of winter it is a great topping for pound cake or a simple olive oil cake.
https://www.penguinrandomhouse.ca/books/15896/well-preserved-by-eugenia-bone/9780307885807/excerpt
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019986-olive-oil-cake?action=click&module=Global%20Search%20Recipe%20Card&pgType=search&rank=1
Finally, you can make a cherry tart. My go-to tart recipes are from Patricia Wells' book At Home in Provence. This is the easiest recipe ever, and your friends and guests will be wowed. The crust has a cookie-like dough that you press into the tart pan, so you don't need a rolling pin.
Any cherry recipe begins with pitting the cherries. Cherry juice wants to explode all over, so it's best to lay down an old towel on your table. I use gloves, because the juice will stain your nails. Also, investing in a good cherry pitter is essential. You can buy one for less than ten dollars. I have two, so sometimes I can invite a friend to a cherry-pitting party.
After you've baked the tart shell, Wells suggests sprinkling the crust with ground almonds so the crust doesn't get soggy when you put in the cream filling.
Then arrange the cherries starting on the outer edge of the tart shell and work your way toward the center.
Now pour the cream mixture in and top the tart with ground almonds. Wells says that cherries and almonds are a match made in heaven, and I agree with her.
Here's the finished tart:
This is the basic recipe for Wells' tart. However, if you want a full immersion in Wells' world I'd suggest having a copy of her book At Home in Provence. My copy is falling apart with love and use. Patrica Wells is a goddess.
https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/verlets-apricot-tart-101800
Happy baking!
Barbara Hamby is the author of seven books of poems, most recently Holoholo (2021), Bird Odyssey (2018) and On the Street of Divine Love: New and Selected Poems (2014), all published by the University of Pittsburgh Press, which also published Babel (2004) and All-Night Lingo Tango (2009). She was a 2010 Guggenheim fellow in Poetry and her book of short stories, Lester Higata’s 20th Century, won the 2010 Iowa Short Fiction Award. She has also edited an anthology of poems, Seriously Funny (Georgia, 2009), with her husband David Kirby. She teaches at Florida State University.
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