Not too terribly long ago I was in a pretty fancy café on Paris' famous île Saint Louis. I fell into a chat with an American guy. He told me that France had a problem. That problem, this guy said, is in Saint Denis, a big suburban town to the north of the île Saint Louis.
From his chair, the guy portentously pointed as due north as he could.
I’m a smart-ass guy, sometimes, so I said, “The Monarchy”?
The basilica in Saint Denis, the city itself, is the burial ground of French royalty as well as the site of a lot of public housing for immigrants, mostly from former French colonies and current overseas territories, and since the 2024 Olympics, two, yes, I have written "two", public swimming pools for its lucky and remarkably stable population of 113,000. The tombstones in Saint Denis, by the way, go a ways towards showing that, even way way back, in the minds of its peoples “Europe” is a place that extends from Cape Finisterre on the Atlantic to that place somewhere above the Caspian Sea where people mistake oars for threshing sticks.
However, I asked my smart-aleck question because I grew up knowing that, because I’m so obviously what I am and he thus thinks that he can say any old word that begins with “n-“ around a guy like me that he could also confide some Azimovian “psychohistory” about “Islam” and “Western Civilization”.
Guys like him and me get our historiography from the Foundation series.
As I hoped, my smart-alecky question farted a little Hegelian doubt between us.
Politely resentful, the American guy-just-like-me, hesitated. I was able to get away.
You would think, though, heavily armed as we all are in our current head-long rush for some brand of Civilizational Apocalypse, Headstrong Ignorance himself would have begun to realize that, at the very least, the fault is not in the stars. Or that guys-like-me might do well to suspend the traditional belief that because a man can afford an over-priced cup of coffee, his fulminations can’t possibly be just plumb dumb or crazy.
But, no.
Indeed, the players of the performance troupe Baro d’Evel from Catalonia brought the home truth here home to me a couple weeks back with their lively and hopeful piece Qui Som (“Who are we – Who we are”) at Maison de la Culture de Seine Saint Denis, Bobigny or MC93. As a fact, the theater is not all that far from where guys-like-me such the American psychohistorian above, are claiming that “Islam” is skulking around those old royal tombstones, muttering the Coran, if not snorting coke. Anyway, not working.
Qui Som put it this way: “Nobody is getting off this train”. The phrase is meant as a call to solidarity in the face of catastrophe, of course. But I understood it as more like the Army marching song: “Aint’ no use lookin’ down/ain’t no discharge on the ground/Ain’t no use in lookin’ back, Jody got your Cadillac!/Ain’t no use in goin’ home, Jody got your girl an’ gone! Airborne! Airborne! Airborne”. Pugnacious-sounding resignation to the orphan yonder with his gun.
I rather liked being a soldier and I liked Baro d’Evel and Qui Som but both a train I can’t get off and Jody running off with my girl leave me depressed.
Indeed, don’t get me wrong. Qui Som is a really good show. Well done, Baro d’Evel! Their shtick is good: a flustered MC with the ability to get on with the show in spite of messy slip ups into an imponderable slime and into a sea of plastic trash, of much disaster and missed opportunity… A cast able to turn clay pots into hats and those hats into masks and masks into…
Well, it seems, there is little bit of magic still in this world of autonomous fighting drones and precision strikes that kill hecatombs…
All hail the ancestor Vaudeville, the messiah of the modern era: where apocalypse can amuse as well as kill…
Qui Som ends with a marching band. Spectators are invited to join a dancing fête in the theater foyer. The Baro d’Evel troupe have it right. Everything is still possible. But.
Usually ready to hang around, especially at MC93, where the bar-cafeteria is really gemütlich, I instead slink away, take my bike, don’t bother with my wet poncho, fade into the pouring rain.
It comes down to this: what do you do when a body is not sure how to frame the answer because a body is not sure what the operative question is or even if there is an operative question?
And, then: Ain’t no use in lookin’ down, nobody is getting off this train until it gets to where it’s going.
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I saw “Qui Som”, created and directed by Camille Decourtye and Blaï Mateu Trias at the MC93, Maison de la Culture de Seine Saint Denis, Bobigny, 25 January 2025, performed by members of the troupe Baro d’Evel, including Lucia Bocanegra, Noëmie Bouissou, Camille Decourtye, Miguel Fiol, Dimitri Jourde, Chen-Wei Lee, Blaï Mateu Trias, Yolanda Sey, Julian Sicard, Marti Soler, Maria Carolina Vieira, Guillermo Weickert with participation of Luc Delafrênée and Yasmin Nahioul of the La petite troupe de la MC93.
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